As we walked it was nice to see the street in the light of day and identify everything we had come across the night before. Strolling through the streets we soon came across lots of women carrying a wide range of goods in baskets balanced expertly on their heads; if this wasn't an indication we were heading in the right direction I don't know what would be!
Having only spent an evening in the area it seemed remarkably westernised in certain ways, and traditionally Indonesian in others. The main reason I mention this is because we came across our first Starbucks, we came close to missing it entirely as it seemed to blend so seamlessly into the background. Deciding that it was worth a picture (and that alone) we headed off in search of the local food on offer.
It didn't take too long to find the market once the concentration of women with baskets on their heads, and those on mopeds, increased. The most remarkable thing that struck me first was that, despite appearing to be quite touristy, there was almost no-one there who wasn't Indonesian. A couple of tourists wandered around sporting cameras as big as their heads, sadly we were the same. As I was pondering the reasons behind this Lena brought it to my attention that it was still before 8am... I'm not my quickest in the early morning.
Walking through the market place I was struck by the sheer amount of items and the vividness of the colours on display. Deciding to try and spend wisely we made sure we didn't buy from the first person who offered us something, no, we bought from the second! Very keen business minds operating here! The food is question was a couple of pieces of what were pandan flavoured bites with some desiccated coconut; I have learnt from past experiences that I don't dislike panda but equally I don't really enjoy it that much either but they were alright, nothing special.
Sensing that something more filling was necessary in order to keep me upright so early in the morning we headed into narrow and tall alleyways of the market where the bright vidid colours were replaced by the warm earthy colours of wood. Following our noses away from the bad smells and towards the better ones and the distinct sounds of sizzling we came across a small stall selling all manner of satay sticks. With hunger threatening to overtake me I quickly tucked into the offering.
With my hunger at bay for the time being we wandered for what felt like hours through the labyrinthian maze, fortunately no minotaurs though. The only real purchase of the morning was a sharks tooth necklace that had been chopped in half in order to provide a smooth surface to rest against my neck; this did nothing to confirm its authenticity but was a nice feature.
Once we had found our way back to the main road Lena and I decided that we should head off and find some of the temples and old buildings that each town has. In each town/city in Bali there are 3 temples that are representative of 3 different stages of life (I could be wrong on the meaning but there are defiantly 3...). On our way into the centre of Ubud we passed one although it isn't really that impressive; the impressive part was that at the main intersection of the town stood a MASSIVE wooden construct adorned with bright colours, apparently the local 'king' had died. I put 'king' in quotation marks simply because the term 'king' here is basically comparable to a town mayor and to commemorate his life they were building a massive memorial...that they would burn down. Sadly we would be leaving before this could happen so instead we just got to see all the local artisans making this huge thing!
We strolled into the temple and found a collection of sarong clad men cutting and shaping various parts that would be later added to the massive effigy. As countries go Bali is quite strict about their temples and requires people who visit to wear sarongs and to not be menstruating, fortunately this wasn't a temple as such so I was safe...in both instances. Having stopped off to visit this massive thing we continued our journey into Ubud, turning off the main road and head down one of the only other major roads going through the town. Nothing much was happening as we went, just looking at the wonderful views that surrounded us, but as we reached a clearing with a large expanse we came across a school and a group of students walking in a regimented manner; it would later be revealed to us that they were rehearsing for the upcoming independence day (another event we would sadly miss :( ).
As we reached the end of our walk we came across our goal; the monkey forest! A sacred ground filled with loads of monkeys who took great pleasure in eating bananas and stealing stuff they thought was bananas. The entrance to the fine temple was rife with the little blighters, the bigger ones seemed to herd the smaller ones like a primate version of Fagan. Once we moved into the middle of the temple we came across a smaller temple and found that to get inside we would have to don a sarong which the attendants tied around us. Having paid visits to many (many) temples I found this one to be quite earthy, it seemed to steer clear of gaudy opulence. Soon after leaving the temple we found ourselves at the other end of the temple undecided on our next course of action; deciding this was as good a time as any to have a sit down we were soon accompanied by an inquisitive monkey. We soon discovered the source of his interest; our map. Grabbing the thing with both hands and his teeth he tore it, I thought it would probably be better to let him have it as he ran off across the temple flaunting his prize before the other monkeys.
It became apparent that the day was wearing on and we were both getting incredibly hungry. With our appetites coming to the forefront of our minds we set off to find the famed babi guling. The main component of the dish is a large amount of suckling pig with flavours that seem to verge on orgasmic! It wasn't the most well presented food but by god did it taste good. Perched on the floor we ate our bowls clean and licked our fingers on any hidden morsel. With our hunger now safely locked away we strolled around some more and found ourselves drawn to a young man dressed in traditional Balinese dress; turns out he was selling tickets to some night theatre, well there is our evening entertainment sorted out then!
Having been travelling through Ubud for the better part of the day we were exhausted and the climb back up the incline felt impossibly difficult but somehow we persevered. Hot and sweaty we rested on the bed before diving into the pool to cool off, such joy there was being able to frolic in the cold refreshing water.
With the evenings entertainment fast approaching we settled into...a big feast. The cook made a fantastic array of traditional balinese food for our sampling. Like so many other dishes I have had this holiday I had a tendency to favour the fried ones. The food was simple but delicious, a sort of build your own dinner (buffet, I think its called :) ).
For the second time today we made our way down the hilled slope in order to seek our prize, a theatrical experience under the stars, but first we had to get there. Along the way there were numerous people selling tickets to the nights festivities and every time we saw another temple we thought we had found it but alas. The road seemed far longer than it had before and it only got longer as we had to pass another temple, but as we were starting to wonder if we were being scammed, we found it! A modest location, adorned by numerous plastic garden chairs, we quickly took a seat with a good view. Having arrived early we had the joy of trying to figure out what was about to unravel before us (in other words: we read the programme...).
As the theatrical extravaganza went underway we soon found out that our modestly sized venue was about to become a little crowded. Dozens of men clad in sarongs (and little else) came into the temple. Forming organised concentric circles they began a chant that will forever be bored into my memory, even as I type this I can hear it creeping into the forefront of my mind (great I forgot my next point). The story, unfortunately, was told entirely in the local dialect and Lena could only understand passing words as they were a little unclear, even trying to follow along with the programme did little to remove the cloud of confusion.
The theatrical event went on for ages, a variety of different characters came and went. Finally we reached the finale! A man dressed as a horse proceeded the kick the ever loving s**t out of some burning wood and coals and then danced around whilst they were herded up for him to do it again. A child kicking the leaves sprang to mind but far more badass!
Taking our long, long, long walk back to our comfty residence we stopped off for another variation on satay which looked a lot like fish paste on popsicle sticks. Despite the odd appearance they were fantastic!
With the food settled in my stomach both Lena and I settled in for a good nights sleep, fully prepared to do it all again tomorrow.